The Chandela dynasty of Bundelkhand, most famous today for having built the Khajuraho temples (210 km away) also ruled here around the 12th century. Later, warrior clans fought and lost many battles for possession of the fort, until the Baghels made the Bandhavgarh Fort their capital in the 17th century. The house of Rewa, whose descendents still own the imposing fort, trace a direct lineage from the Baghel dynasty and the fort is still owned by the Rewa family. This is, in fact, the only private property legally recognised within the National Park area and tourists can visit it after obtaining permission. Today the fort is, however, run down and has been, ever since the capital was shifted to Rewa 120 kms away. Till a few decades ago it served as a hunting preserve for blue bloods, who took advantage of the fact that the forest had reclaimed much of its once well-manicured estate.

Ironically, the fact that commoners were kept out of the hunting preserve did a world of good to the wildlife of the region, whose habitat was spared the axe and plough. But it has been a bloody time for tigers, because each Rewa Maharaja was, by tradition, expected to shoot at least 100 tigers! Some of them took this to be their purpose of life and one particularly bloodthirsty royal, Gulab Singh of Rewa, took pride in the fact that he had killed 480 tigers! The story goes that while beaters were instructed to advance in a line, Gulab Singh would sit on a machan at a vantage point, reading a book. A tethered rhesus monkey was kept nearby. When a tiger appeared the monkey would raise an alarm. All Gulab Singh had to do was lift his rifle and bag the "trophy". At the time it won him endless accolades as a brave hunter. After Independence the privy purses were abolished and the territories of royals were taken over. Bandhavgarh became a part of Madhya Pradesh and was converted into a National Park in 1968. Hunting was officially stopped, new water holes constructed and grazing curbed. Tigers, pushed to the brink of extinction, found a new lease on life. The relatively small (105 sq kms) protected area was extended to 449 sq kms as late as 1986. Tigers benefited and their numbers rose because young ones from new litters were able to carve prey-stocked territories for themselves. The source of the Charanganga, a vital water source for the park, originates within the fort precincts. Almost touching the ramparts, is an imposing stone statue of a reclining Vishnu, carved around the 10th century. Called Sesh Saya, it was never destroyed despite hundreds of years of wars and skirmishes, because people believed the Charanganga originated at the feet of Vishnu. This worship of forested water sources was once common across India. Such protection had widespread social support and was clearly more effective than the mere legal protection most reserves now enjoy.

Villagers also graze their herds within the forest, and this has led to serious conservation problems as livestock not only compete with wild animals for food, but can also transmit fatal diseases. Illicit felling of timber and firewood is another constant problem. There are still six villages inside that need to be relocated. This would free considerable space inside for wild animals, but the Madhya Pradesh government and local politicians who do not want their vote banks to vanish, are not supportive.

Money to construct stone walls to keep livestock out is also impossible to come by. The authorities need to explain why proper veterinary facilities cannot be offered to graziers to keep their animals free of disease.

The leaf litter on the forest floor is vital to the ecology of the forest. But careless tourists and local villagers have turned this into a major threat because of carelessly thrown cigarettes, or unattended campfires. Often local women in search of mahua flowers set the leaf litter afire just prior to the nutritious flowers being shed by the trees. This helps to locate the flowers, but devastates the forest and all ground-dwelling creatures. The months between February and June are especially dangerous and special watchtowers equipped with wireless sets have been set up to spot fires early. Roads and specially cut fire lines also help control fires. It should be remembered that ground fires do not generally harm trees, but they do reduce the amount of forage available to ungulates at the precise time when they need it most, in summer.

Night patrols to curb poaching are carried out.

More than 6,000 tourists visit Bandhavgarh every year between November and June and this number is rising. Visitors need to be sensitised to the needs of the animals. One of the most disturbing aspects of the tourism trade is the manner in which tour operators and lodge owners have conspired to hold what has come to be known as a 'Tiger Show'. Using two or three elephants to corner the cats, mahawats, block their escape till hordes of tourists are able to see the beleaguered animals. This often prevents tigers from hunting, drinking water and protecting their young. The practice is cruel and should be stopped. Operators that include such respected names as Abercrombie and Kent are alleged to charge a guarantee fee of $500 from tourists. If they do not see a tiger, the amount is refunded. This, as can be imagined, sets into motion a whole tangle of problems for forest officers, whose ground staff and mahawats oblige for the financial rewards that await.