The area comprising the forest was once the playground of the big game hunters. Full of jheels (lakes) and marshland -- which have now been converted to paddy and sugarcane fields -- this was once the heart of the most extensive swamp deer ranges. Called barasingha, or 12-pointed deer, the animals had caught the imagination of the huntsmen. Predictably, their population dwindled in the crossfire of hunting and habitat loss. Today, as the grass bursts forth after the monsoon in the protected confines of the park, the barasingha herds can be seen raising their antlers skywards, assured of survival at least for now.

The barasingha is a vital prey species for the tiger. These deer originally triggered conservation efforts here and the fact that both predator and prey continue to be relatively safe in Dudhwa speaks volumes for Project Tiger's essential strategy: Save the habitat if you want to save the wildlife.

Among Dudhwa's successes is the introduction of a small herd of Indian one-horned rhinoceri into the Park (which shares a border with Nepal) in 1984 with the active involvement of the then Prime Minister, Indira Gandhi.

With a high density of tigers, predictably there are fewer leopards in Dudhwa, however, these stealthy cats do make frequent enough appearances to remind visitors of their presence. Dudhwa is one of the few places in India where as many as five species of deer coexist, including the chital, sambar, muntjac, hog deer and the swamp deer. The swamp deer inside the sanctuary are relatively few in number (about 1,800) and have been relegated to the wetlands. Vast areas that historically supported the species have been left out of the 'protected area' and the deer still fall prey to poachers' guns.

Visitors can easily see the expanding herds of the great Indian one-horned rhinoceros, Rhinoceros unicornis, the largest and the best known of the three Asiatic species of rhino that was re-introduced from Nepal and Assam. The primary needs of the pachyderms are a well-watered habitat with plenty of food and water. This is offered by the Dudhwa system in abundance. Rhinos had been wiped out from most of their earlier range in Uttar Pradesh and the idea was to translocate a viable population from Assam to restock the Dudhwa terai, initially in a protected enclosure where their young would be free from predators. There was much bad blood at the time because the Assamese began to feel that their tourism revenue was being taken from them! Fortunately, better sense prevailed, though India did have to look to Nepal for stocks as well.

Wild elephants, previously only seasonal visitors, were forced to seek refuge in Dudhwa following massive habitat destruction in Nepal in the 1960s and 70s.They have returned to their original habitat since, but occasional visits are not uncommon. With luck, visitors can still see the magnificent herd bull estimated to stand over 3.5 metres tall.

Another prime beneficiary of conservation efforts has been the hispid hare, a dark brown grassland creature with characteristic bristly fur. Elsewhere in the terai, the hare has been all but wiped out by agriculture.

Trips to Dudhwa will reveal sounders of pig and the occasional nilgai or blue-bull, India's largest antelope. With a bit of luck you may also spot a solitary sloth bear or a pair of jackals. Ratels, civets and fishing cats are also found here, but are less visible. In winter, snub-nosed mugger crocodiles can be seen basking lazily on the sandy riverbanks of the Soheli-Neora. Otters, pythons and monitor lizards, in search of a meal of crocodile eggs, are some of the other creatures that can be seen in the well-watered areas.

Among the nocturnal birds are the Great Indian Horned Owl, the Forest Eagle Owl, the Brown Fish Owl, the Tawny Fish Owl, the Dusky Horned Owl and the Brown Wood Owl. The Collared Scops Owl and the Jungle Owlet are more easily seen, but this does not mean they are more numerous. On cool Dudhwa nights, the Indian Nightjar or the Franklin Nightjar calls incessantly. Magpie Robins are permanent fixtures and their soft melodious calls are the leitmotif of the jungle orchestra.

Apart from the Sarus Crane, there are Black-necked Storks, White-necked Storks, Black Storks, White Storks and Painted Storks! And, lest we forget, Open-billed Storks and Adjutant Storks as well!

Dazzling flashes of colour are provided as the beautiful Paradise Flycatcher makes an appearance beyond the green curtains. A trip into the field could reveal an astounding variety, maybe a Blue Bearded Bee-eater sitting by a stream, or a flock of Large Pied Hornbills. The Indian Pitta, Emerald Doves and Cuckoos perform abrupt disappearing acts, followed by their equally mysterious reappearance in large numbers, possibly following food availability.

Innumerable species of Woodpeckers, Orioles, Barbets, Kingfishers, Minivets and Sunbirds abound. Dudhwa's extraordinary range of raptors includes the Grey-headed Fishing Eagle, Pallas Fishing Eagle and Marsh Harriers. Crested Serpent Eagles and Hawk Eagles are also to be seen. The sheer number of bird species can baffle even the most ardent ornithologist! By some estimates, there are as many as six species of vulture are present, a sign of great hope because throughout India vultures are in decline. Hornbills, bulbuls, drongos, prinias, chats and warblers will surely enable you to add to your list of birds-you-have-watched-in-your lifetime.

Some naturalists talk in hushed whispers of the possibility of some of the smaller, inconspicuous lakes in Dudhwa still housing the officially-extinct Pink Headed Duck. Others say this is nothing but wishful thinking.

But the wetlands, nevertheless, play host to thousands of migratory birds, including the Whistling Teal. Dudhwa's position at the Himalayan foothills makes it the perfect staging point for birds en route to distant destinations on the subcontinent.

Of course, the star attraction of the avian world is the Bengal Florican, an endangered bird whose aerial mating rituals are ballet-like and most impressive. The Bengal Florican was once present throughout the terai, but Dudhwa now holds the distinction of being one of the few grassland habitats in the world where this beautiful bustard can still be found. Its courtship display is indeed unique. Costumed in a spectacular black body with stark, white wings, framed by an emerald forest, males take to the air with a noisy flapping of wings, only to descend slowly, and then take a bow before gaining height for an encore. The ritual ends with a graceful dive and is accompanied by the distinctive high-pitched 'chick-chick' calls of the birds.

The Swamp Partridge uses Dudhwa as a transitional habitat, while Black and Grey Partridges occupy its higher grasslands with sandier soils.

For reasons yet unknown, the White Ibis has vanished from here and the celestial trumpeting of the Demoiselle Cranes is no longer heard.