The cuisine of Andhra
Pradesh is reputedly the spiciest and hottest of all Indian
cuisine. The cuisine includes both the original Andhra cooking
and the Hyderabadi cuisine with its Mughlai influence. It
is the former which is red hot.
The pickles and chutneys
are very popular and last for several years. Chutney is made
of practically every vegetable including tomatoes, brinjals
and an aromatic green called 'gonkura' which
is an Andhra speciality. The mango pickle 'Avakkaya'
is a perennial favourite of Andhraites all over the world.
The vegetables and greens are prepared with various different
masalas giving the same vegetable different flavours. Traditional
Andhra cuisine also has many non-vegetarian dishes which are
also spicy and unique in taste.
Hyderabadi cuisine is rich and aromatic with a liberal use
of exotic spices and ghee, not to speak of nuts and dry fruits.
Lamb is the most widely used meat in the
non-vegetarian dishes. The biryanis (flavoured rice with meat
or vegetables) is one of the most distinct Hyderabadi food.
Food is not just something to fill the stomach; it is the
very essence of life. The quintessential Hyderabadi is known
for his nawabi lifestyle--a gracious but
rather laid-back way of life. A quality which is personified
even in the languid elegance with which the city's favourite
son V.V.S. Laxman bats. But when it comes to food, the Hyderabadi
won't tolerate any laziness and has very exacting standards.
As they say here, food is best created with fursat and mohabbat--with
time and love. In Hyderabad you will rarely find a biryani
carelessly overcooked to a sticky mush or left too dry. Every
Hyderabadi cook worth his salan will test the quality of the
biryani cooked by spraying a handful on the floor. Only if
each grain of rice falls separately does it make the grade.
Everyone in Hyderabad has his own favourites when it comes
to picking a restaurant that serves the best biryani. Depending
on the depth of your pocket you can choose from any of the
roadside dhabas, the popular Irani cafes, or the Dum
Pukht at the Grand Kakatiya. It is unlikely
you will be dissatisfied. For it is not for nothing that the
biryani has become synonymous with Hyderabad. This city also
has the tradition of the 'midnight biryani', where close to
the witching hour several hotels bring out large handis of
biryani, which have been simmering on slow dum pukht for the
better part of the day. These eat-all-you-can biryani buffets
are very popular with late-night revellers.
But there is much more to Hyderabadi cuisine than the biryani.
For if you agree with the 19th century French epicure Anthelme
Brillat-Savarin, that the discovery of a new dish does far
more for human happiness than the discovery of a star, then
you'll have to accept that Hyderabad has done its fair bit
to keep us in good cheer. It has taken the highly developed
and refined Mughal cuisine of the North and imbibed it with
the zesty sauces and spices of the South to create a vast
and seductive repertoire quite its own. Hyderabadi food, as
it has come to be known, like the city's culture, heritage
and language, is a melange of several influences--Hindu, Muslim,
North, South, Indian and foreign.
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