Despite its problems and as much for its natural history as for the fact that the ecosystem itself was man-made, this ornithologist's dream come true is arguably one of the most unique bird habitats on the face of the earth. Those who knew him confirm that Dr Salim Ali, the grand old man of ornithology, was happiest here, in the midst of nature and the birds he lived to study and enjoy.

At one time, hundreds of Siberian Cranes came here in the winters. The 'Sibes' arrived at Ghana from their breeding grounds in Siberia 6,400 kms away for roosting grounds that were not frozen over. Today, only two or three birds visit, maintaining just a slender thread of memory that delivers hope that more protected birds may accompany them the next year, or the year after.

Pythons, cobras, vipers, kraits, wolf-snakes, blind snakes, checkered keekbacks, sand boas, monitor lizards, forest calotes, skinks and turtles that scavenge and thus keep the swamps clean.

An incredible number of tiny creatures buzz and zing across the waters including dragonfies, damselflies, butterflies and water beetles. Species that prey on them such as preying mantises and spiders also thrive here. Jackals can be heard howling at night through the park and with luck you could see a small fishing cat or a leopard cat. A small population of striped hyaena, Bengal fox and small Indian civets exists.

Nesting for resident birds, coincides with the arrival of the monsoon, which brings in its wake all the food that hungry chicks need for their development. In the crowded heronries, raucous 'fights' are commonplace as birds jostle for the best breeding sites and for nesting material.

Half-submerged trees seem bent with the weight of birds in August, when crowded heronries of resident birds can be studied. At this time herons, cormorants, egrets and shags compete for space with each other for such nesting sites. Till the young ones are able to take off and fend for themselves (around November/December) there is a constant race to grab food from the swamps that provide a virtual buffet comprising such exquisite offerings as snails, tadpoles and frogs, beetles, crustaceans and mollusks. Jacanas use the floating vegetation, treading like ballerinas on the broad leaves that spread across the water bodies. Such vegetation is also used by them to lay their eggs, safe from terrestrial invaders.

By October when migrant birds start to arrive, so do migrant birdwatchers. The latter in search of geese, duck such as Gadwal, Wigeon, shovelers, Garganey, teal and White-eyed Pochard. Around now, Rosy and Dalmatian Pelicans also arrive to compete with resident Grey Pelicans for fish stocks. Sandpipers, plovers and snipe can be spotted wading on the edges of the marshes. Scrub and forest species also support migratory birds such as warblers and tits.

The most charismatic and rare bird is, of course, the Siberian Crane. Its well-studied behaviour and movements suggests it arrives after travelling 6,400 kms from its Siberian home and that it stays till March to feed and rest before making the long journey back home for the summer. Interestingly, the Siberian Crane is completely vegetarian.

One reason why this bird haven is able to support such a large number of birds is that each species feeds on different food, which reduces competition between them. For instance, spoonbills prefer mollusks and weeds, herons gulp down fish, geese graze like cows in a meadow and flamingoes filter tiny plankton from the waters. Quite separately, raptors such as kites, harriers, eagles and falcons are able to hunt rodents, snakes, lizards and, when they can get to them, young birds in nests. Away from the winter migration season, birdwatchers can concentrate on such species as herons, Moorhens, cormorants, Pied Kingfishers and darters. These birds tend to nest on trees soon after the month of March, while lapwings and curlews nest on the ground in the hot months, keeping company with bright yellow weaver birds that busy themselves stripping long grass 'threads' to craft their nests.

As water sources dry up, Sarus Cranes, the world's tallest flying birds, are attracted to the Ghana from far and near. In March and April perhaps around 400 birds populate the park, but they start moving out again when the monsoon arrives and water easily available. Perhaps around two or three dozen mating pairs stay back and their breathtaking courtship dances around July, when their sonorous calls float over the swamps, are wondrous to watch.

A checklist of some of the birds of Bharatpur:

Water Birds (wetlands): Painted Stork, cormorant, egret, Open-billed Stork, White Ibis, darter, shoveler, teal, Bronzewinged and Pheasant Tailed Jacanas, Ruddy Shelduck, Demoiselle and Sarus Cranes, Gadwall, Pintail, Mallard, Coot, Purple Moorhens.

Raptors: King Vulture, White-backed Vulture, Marsh Harrier, Crested Serpent Eagle, Ring-tailed Fishing Eagle, Short-toed Eagle, Blackwinged Kite, Pallas Fishing Eagle, Tawny Eagle, Collared Scops Owl, Spotted Owlet, Dusky Horned Owl.

Others: Lark, pipit, kingfisher, dove, mynah, bulbul, Blue Jay, oriole, Blossom-headed Parakeet, hoopoe, shrike, bee-eater, wagtails, finch.

Migrants: Siberian Crane, Steppe Eagle, Pale and Marsh Harriers, Osprey, Common Teal, Indian Little ringed Plover