Against the backdrop of the Eastern Himalayas lies a beautiful grass and jungle habitat. Tigers, elephants, golden langurs and Bengal Floricans share this wilderness with other rare and endangered species.

The silvery Manas river flows from the Eastern Himalayas to the plains below, nurturing myriad creatures. Smooth-pebbled and sand-shingled, the river is the lifeblood of the forest, which is protected by the misty blue wall of the Himalayas at a distance.

The forest extends across both banks of the Manas. You can watch this vista unfold from the safe confines of the handsome forest rest house at Mothanguri. A herd of elephants may silently appear on the bank, lending a touch of the ethereal to the scene. Little wonder then, that UNESCO has given it World Heritage status.

Manas has had a troubled past and its future is far from secure. The quiet of the tiger reserve, which represents the entire biotope, was shattered for nearly a decade by the Bodo struggle from the mid-80s to the early 90s. The thick forests became a hideout for armed militants who took a vicious toll on the wildlife. The rhino population was brutally decimated and traded in for cash. Terrorists took human lives too, targeting forest guards in particular. Manas was closed to visitors for years, and was reopened only in October 1995.

Although a tentative peace prevails, the park itself never quite recovered from the aftermath of the insurgency. Poachers and timber smugglers continue to wreak havoc even today. Manas is home to the wild buffalo, the elephant, the tiger and the rhino. It shelters the highest number of endangered species in India as listed in the IUCN’s (International Union for Conservation of Nature) Red Book. The Red Data Book is a listing of endangered species with their status. It is continuously updated and indicates the status of animals, the reasons for their decline and the various management measures needed to save them.

The Asiatic Buffalo is one of the prime attractions of Manas. The animal attains its maximum size here, as compared to any other place in Asia for there is no dilution with feral stock. The wide sandy banks of the Manas and Boki rivers rich in grasses are favourite gathering places for the bovines though they bolt at the slightest hint of sound or movement. You may see herds at the river. Occasionally, you may witness a lone bull preparing to fight. The characteristic toss of the huge head with its impressive horns is a warning sign of impending aggression.

Larger than most other elephants on the subcontinent, huge tuskers stroll in big herds across the Manas river that divides Bhutan and India. The tiger and the leopard are the predominant cats in the area, but are elusive to the casual visitor. The clouded leopard is another cat you may spot if you are lucky.

Primates include the capped langur and the golden langur, on the Bhutan side of Manas. Both are shy and tend to stay high up in trees, safe from danger. The golden langurs (pale chestnut coloured simians who sport lighter coats in summer) are a stunning sight on the elegant flowering trees they inhabit. The only place on the Indian side where they have been reported is in the Chakrasheela forests of Assam. It is possible however to cross the river at its narrowest and row across to the forests of Bhutan to see them.

The slow loris and the Hoolock gibbon are rarely seen. Assamese macaques, though rare, exist in the islands downstream where you could see them in large troupes.

Try to spot a pair of attractive Malay tupaia or tree shrew -- grey-brown animals with pointed noses and bushy tails.

The pigmy hog and the hispid hare (Assamese rabbit) are tiny grassland mammals that still survive in Manas. Their future depends on the survival of the grasslands. Manas is home to as many as 22 of the 41 Indian species of animals that are classified as ‘highly endangered’ under Schedule I in the IUCN Red Book.

The hog deer or pada, barking deer or muntjac, chital and sambar abound. A peculiarity with the sambar and most large deer in this region is the development of a reddish sore-like patch on their throats. The swamp deer is found in occasional pockets.

Sloth bears tend to stay in thick forested areas, but can be seen at dawn and dusk. Wild pigs are easily seen around rivers and watercourses, looking for tubers. The river is a great place to spend your day and you may chance upon a pack of otters or water monitors here.